SIMIEN MOUNTAIN PARKS
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“The most marvelous of all Abyssinian landscapes
opened before us, as we looked across a gorge that was clouded amethyst
to the peaks of simien, …” (Rosita Forbes,1925. From Red Sea to Blue Nile-A
Thousand Miles of Ethiopia).
The Simien:
is an area of highland country in the northern part of Ethiopia in the
Administrative of North Gondar. Rosita Forbes says, the Simyen massif
is a “volcanic pile now bounded by gigantic erosional precipices on almost
all sides.” In addition to spectacular scenery, the region contains a
number of unusual botanical phenomena and some of the rarest animals in
the world. The walia ibex has its citadel among the peaks of the Simyen;The
Simien fox, also very rare, is found nowhere else but in these mountains
and in the highlands of southern Ethiopia . The gelada, a primate which
looks like a cross between a baboon and a lion, is another exclusively
Ethiopian species which lives in this habitat. Birds which are endemic
to Ethiopia are found in the Simyen. In 1969, the wildest part of this
region was gazetted as a national park.
GEOLOGY: The
Simyen highlands constitute one of the major mountain massifs in Africa
. The region includes many summits above 4,000 meters and culminates in
the highest point in Ethiopia , Ras Dejen, at 4,620 meters (15,157 feet),
the fourth highest mountain in Africa . Its dramatic topography is the
result of the erosion of basalt lavas which have been calculated to be
nearly 3,000 meters thick. During the Oligocene period of geological history
(approximately 40—25 million years ago), volcanic activity of the “Hawaiian
type”—i.e., an outpouring of lava like a pot of syrup boiling over, as
contrasted to the explosive sort which throws chunks of hot rocks and
ash high into the air—spread over a wide area which originally may have
covered 15,000 square kilometers or more. The center of the cone lay in
the present-day region of the Abba Yared, Selki, and Beroch Waha peaks.
This lava spread and hardened slowly, forming a profile with gently sloping
sides characteristic of Hawaiian-type volcanoes. The rocks beneath the
lava were horizontal layers of Mesozoic (more than 70 million years ago)
sandstone and limestone which in turn rested on a level Pre-Cambrian (over
600 million years ago) plain. The layers of rock were laid one on top
of the other like the pages of a book. Here and there a relative weakness
or crack in the massive block opened the way for erosion. During the Pleistocene,
when the northern regions of the world were covered with glaciers, most
of Africa was drenched in rain. The Simyen highlands had both: glaciations
on the highest points, with rainfall pelting the rest. The cracks in the
bard, resistant basalt, once begun, were widened and deepened by the floods
that poured into them. Trenches some 1,500 meters deep (4,000 to 5,000
feet) were cut. The gigantic kings and pawns of Rosita Forbes’ description
are the hard cores of volcanic outlets from which the surrounding material
has eroded away.
CLIMATE: The Simyen region, though it is on the continent
of Africa and not far from the equator, has temperatures which sometimes
drop below freezing at night. Hail and snow fall on the highest points
and the resulting ice may remain for several days. On the other hand,
the sun’s rays beat directly down and the rarified atmosphere does not
act as an effective filter. Maximum temperatures during the day are about
15° Centigrade (60° Fahrenheit). At night the temperature usually drops
to 3°—5°C (35°—40°F). October, November and December are the coldest months,
when the temperature is likely to go below freezing. The season of the
big rains begins in June and lasts through September.
BOTANY: The visitor to the Simyen National
Park will pass through three general botanical regions. At the lowest
altitude, up to about 2,700—3,000 meters (9,000—10,000 feet), between
Debarek and Sankaber, the land has been cultivated and grazed by cattle,
sheep and goats. This region was once covered with forests of partly Syzygium
and Maesa, partly Janiperus and olive trees, and probably resembled the
Menegasha forest near Addis Ababa . Today, little is left of this indigenous
vegetation. Above this level and up to 3,600 meters (around 12,000 feet),
in ancient times there was a forest of giant heath (Erica arborea) with
patches of giant St. John’s worth (Hypericum revolutum). Today this area
has also been deforested, but remnants of the original vegetation can
still be seen. Still higher, above 3,600 meters, the mountain grassland
begins. The dominant grasses are fescues, Poa, and Danthonia. This region
is also graced with the red and yellow flowers of the “red-hot poker”
(Kniphofia foliosa and Kniphofia comosa) ad silvery straw-flowers, or
everlastings (Helichrysum sp.). But by far the most spectacular plant
of this region is the giant lobelia, Lobelia rhynchopetalum, with flower
stalks up to eight meters high. At the highest altitudes, e.g. on the
summits of Buahit and Ras Dejen, outside the park and beyond the usual
tourist route, the vegetation consists mainly of mosses and lichens. And
in the lowland valleys, there are extensive forest comprising many species
of trees. Mountainous regions in the tropics are usually continuous, connected
chains of highland with proximity or contact with temperately or connect
with temperate regions. Because of their cool climates they provide suitable
habitats for species found in the neighboring temperate zones; thus they
are, in a manner of speaking, biological peninsulas. Only Africa provides
an exception to this rule. The mountains of Africa are isolated units
rather than connected chains, and they have no contact with temperate
regions. Approximately twenty-five plant genera are restricted to the
east African highland regions. Hagenia abyssinica, the kosso tree, which
takes its name of the Amharic word for tapeworm.The flowers and the fruits
of this tree are used to as a purge rid the body of tape worm. The giant
heath, Erica arborea (Amharic: asta), is one of the few species of the
Ethiopian highlands which is fairly widespread. In simyen mountains national
park it occurs in extensive stands along the escarpment between sankaber
and mechebey,and along the Dejen ber river, as well as scattered in other
regions throughout the park. Abyssinian wild rose, Rosa Abyssinica (Amharic:
q`age). Rose Abyssinica is the only wild rose native to Africa . Giant
St. John’s wort (hypericum quartinianum in the low lands and Hypericum
revoltum), called amidja: in Amharic, belongs to genus of plants which
are essentially temperate in character but has a wide distribution through
the more elevated tropics. Giant lobelia, Lobelia rhynchopetalum (Amharic:
djebera), is an extraordinary plant which belongs to a family found primarily
in South America . There are over 200 species of the genus Lobelia, most
of them found in the southern hemisphere. Lobelia rhynchopetalum is found
only in Ethiopia . This plant grows vegetative for fifteen or twenty years,
then it produces a flower on a massive, woody column some ten meters high.
As if exhausted by this achievement, it then dies. For the lobelias, like
many of the plants of the African highlands, are more familiar as small
herbaceous species a few centimeters high. Giant sphere thistle, Echinops
giganteum (Amharic: dindero). In Ethiopia and other African highland regions,
the Echinops have grown to the proportions of shrubs and even trees. Echinops
giganteum is found only in Ethiopia . Afrovivell semiensis: It is the
small, fleshy plant known only by its scientific name as mentioned. It
is found only in the simian mountains. Its flowers are pink and red like.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia sp.), which is a genus confined to Africa and
Arabia . Its tall stalks, bearing red and yellow flowers, are very common
in some parts of the park. Clematis (Clematis grandiflora), which bears
blossoms, like golden velvet and has fluffy plumes to aid in the dispersal
of its seeds. Straw-flowers, or everlastings (Helichrysum sp.) are scattered
throughout the park, adding to its beauty and interest.The plants of the
Simyen may be summed up as being both cosmopolitan and unique, both strange
and very beautiful.
MAMMALS: Walia ibex Walia ibex, Capra Walia,
is a type of wild goat. But it is found only in Simien Mountain and endemic
to Ethiopia . The Walia live on nearly vertical cliff faces and narrow
ledges in a restricted area within the Simien Mountains . They are seldom
found below 2,400 meters (8,000 feet). Both males and females have horns,
but those of the males are heavily ridged horns sweeping back over its
shoulders. A large male may weigh 120 kilograms (250 pounds) and stand
110 cm. or 43 inches at the shoulder. The Walia tend to move out onto
the grassy ledges of the cliffs to feed and sun themselves in mornings
and evenings. During the rest of the day they may stay out of Sight under
the shrubs, in caves, or underneath rocky overhangs Gelada Another mammal
unique to Ethiopia is the so called gelada baboon (Amharic: ch’elada),
bleeding – heart baboon, or lion monkey (Theropithecus gelad).They live
in the Simyen Mountains and in a few other highland areas of Ethiopia
. They are among the most strictly vegetarian of the primates. Most of
the gelada’s day is spent plucking grass and digging for roots and bulbs
on which it feeds. The gelada’s other main pastime is termed “grooming”-
a characteristics activity of all monkeys and apes- which entails picking
through each other’s fur. The activity keeps the fur clean and free of
parasites but it also has a social function which seems to give great
satisfaction to the participants. “You scratch my back and I’ll scratch
yours” seems to be the source of greatest pleasure in the world of monkeys.
Grooming is an activity especially for the early morning, just before
the geladas begin their day long feeding session and again in the evening
before they retire. Geldas are seldom found far from the cliffs. Both
sexes of geladas have a heart-shaped patch of bare reddish skin on their
chest from which the name “bleeding –heart baboon” is derived. Each adult
male has a harem of females- usually three to five. The gelada’s voice
must be heard to be believed some of the sounds they make are so nearly
human in tone that one wonders if they are speaking in an unfamiliar language.
Simien fox Simien fox or Abyssinian wolf (Simenia simensis). It is rare
in the Simien. It is a member of the dog family, but the only one of its
genus; and restricted to Ethiopia . The Amharic name is q’ay q’abaro.
Its height is about 60 centimeters (23 inches) at the shoulder. It is
almost diurnal, since one of its main sources of food, the African field
rat, Arvicanthis abyssinicus, comes above ground only in the daytime.
Since the Simien fox does not dig extensively, the inference is that it
hunts these rodents during the day and sleeps at night. Other mammals
Klipspringers (Oreotragus oreotragus) (Amharic:sass), Grimm’s duikers
(Sylvicapra grimmia) (Amharic: midaqua), and bushbuck (Tragelaphus scriptus)
(Amharic: dukula) though shy and inconspicuous, may be glimpsed occasionally.
They are usually seen running away. Hyaerias (Crocuta crocuta) (Amharic:
djib) are reasonably common in the area but are seldom seen. Jackals (canis
aureus) (Amharic: q’abaro) are common around the Geech camp. These animals
may be distinguished from the Simien fox by their grayish-buff color.
BIRDS: There are many species of birds which include birds
of prey and carcass eater. This includes an unusually large number of
birds of prey and carrion-eaters. One of the most secular of these is
the lammergeyer, or bearded vulture, Gypaetus berbautus(Amharic;ch’ululey).
This magnificent bird with the Simien, through it is found also in other
parts of Africa, Asia and Europe . Its diet makes it one of nature’s rare
phenoemena: it eats bone and bone marrow. When an animal dies, the lammergeyer
waits until the bones have been picked clean by other scavengers, and
then it eats the smaller bones. The bigger bones it carries away to a
flat, rocky spot over which it sails like a bomber and drops the bone
from a height sufficient to shatter it to bits. When the bone is broken
to manageable size, the lammergeyer eats the pieces. The augur buzzard,
Buteo rufofuscus, it is commonly seen in the national park. Egyptian vulture,
Neophron percnopterus, eggs form a part of the diet of the Egyptian vulture.
If the egg is large and difficult to crack, the vulture picks up a stone
with its beak and throws it at the egg until the shell cracks. Other large
birds which may be seen include the Ruppell’s griffon vulture (Gyps ruppelli
), the hooded vulture (Necrosyrtes monachus), and faced vulture(Torgos
tracheliotus). In the Simien mountain, there are birds which are endemic
to Ethiopia . The most readily observed are the thick-billed raven (Corvus
Crassirotstris), the wattled ibis (Bostrychia carunculata), and the white
collared pigeon (Columba albitorques). There are many more birds in the
park.